Madagascar Train Journey – Fianarantsoa Côte Est

A Spectacular Journey

Experience the scenic train journey to Manakara from Sahambavy on the East Coast (approximate duration 10-14 hours) by Fianarantsoa Côte Est (FCE) Train. This spectacular route teeters along viaducts, crosses more than 60 bridges, cuts through steep-sided jungle valleys and speeds down the world’s third-steepest railway incline. The railway lines were constructed during French Colonial times to transport raw materials for export to France.

The Fianarantsoa Côte Est (FCE) train journey is one of Madagascar’s most famous and adventurous travel experiences. It’s not a luxury ride but rather a vital lifeline for local communities and a unique opportunity for tourists to witness the country’s dramatic landscape and daily life up close.

The Route and Its History

• Route: The FCE connects the city of Fianarantsoa in the central highlands to the coastal port town of Manakara on the Indian Ocean.
• Distance and Duration: The railway is 163 km (101 miles) long. While this seems like a short distance, the journey is notoriously long and unpredictable. It can take anywhere from 12 to 24 hours to complete, due to frequent stops, loading and unloading of goods, and the challenging terrain.
• Engineering Marvel: Constructed by the French between 1926 and 1936, the railway is an incredible feat of colonial engineering. It crosses over 60 bridges, passes through 48 tunnels, and navigates what is considered the world’s third-steepest railway incline, descending over 1,100 meters from the highlands to the coast.

The Journey: A Glimpse into Local Life

The FCE train is far more than just a mode of transport; it’s a moving market and a social hub.

• Passenger and Freight: The train carries both passengers and a massive amount of freight, from sacks of rice and live chickens to bananas, spices, and various local goods. It’s the only way for many isolated villages along the route to transport their products to a market.
• Station Stops: At each of the 17 stations, a lively scene unfolds as local vendors rush to the train windows to sell food and drinks to passengers. You can buy anything from fresh fruit and fried snacks to grilled meat skewers and coffee. These stops can last for a significant amount of time, giving travelers a chance to stretch their legs and interact with the local communities.

Scenery and Landscapes

The FCE journey is a visual spectacle, with the landscape changing dramatically as the train descends from the highlands to the coast.

• Highland Vistas: The journey begins with views of the Betsileo country, characterized by lush terraced rice paddies, rolling hills, and traditional red-brick houses. The scenery is punctuated by beautiful waterfalls and deep valleys.
• The Jungle Descent: As the train descends the steep escarpment, the landscape transforms into a thick, humid rainforest. This section of the journey is particularly scenic, with views of dense vegetation, tall trees, and more spectacular waterfalls.
• Coastal Plains: The final leg of the trip winds through tropical coastal plains with plantations of bananas, lychees, and coffee before arriving at Manakara. The railway even has a unique moment where it crosses the town’s airport runway.

Practical Tips for Travelers

• Be Prepared: Bring plenty of water, snacks, and a portable charger. The journey is long and can be delayed.
• First Class vs. Second Class: While first class offers a designated seat, many travelers find that the real experience is in the more crowded second-class carriages, where you get to mingle with locals.
• Enjoy the Unexpected: The FCE journey is not about efficiency but about the experience. Delays, breakdowns, and unexpected stops are part of the adventure. Embrace the slow pace and the opportunity to witness a slice of authentic Malagasy life.